Hi all,
Last night I had a singular experience, though I'm going back next week, so not sure if singular is the right word. Oh well... At any rate, I had my first Russian bath, or Russian sauna as my newest good friend, Boris, would say, along with Ania's father, Yuri.
I spent approximately an hour and a half alternately having my brains and body boiled, being beaten with oak and birch branches while having my brains and body boiled, taking warm followed by cold showers, and sitting in a small locker room naked shooting the shit with several older but robust ex-Soviets. Mostly I listened to the snatches of conversation I could understand in Russian, with Boris interpreting any comments directed my way. And before you misunderstand, it was one of the more enjoyable and unique experiences in my life.
There was just something so open about the evening, which I guess is an appropriate word considering what I was wearing. What I'm writing here really doesn't do it justice. Boris and I joked that we should start a chain of Russian baths in Indiana, with the slogan "Are you tough enough for a Russian bath?" I'm not saying I'm a particularly tough guy, but I do think it would be a challenge for many USians (see, it's catching on already...), if nothing else because you can't hurry the process, which I think really was one of the more enjoyable aspects of the experience.
We followed it with a visit to the local pub for some excellent food (some sort of meat wrapped in dough which I cannot for the life of me remember the name of), along with a pivo (beer) and several glasses of vodka. Straight vodka is still something of a challenge for me, but after the second one, it just seems to get better and better.
As I said, what I'm writing here really doesn't do justice to the experience. If you are ever in any of the Slavic countries and have the opportunity, I would highly recommend it. And yes, there was a side for women as well, separate from the men. Though our unclothed state did nothing to dissuade the matron of the establishment from cleaning the locker room around us or ushering in new clients.
Anyway, enough for now, I'll post this. Though I reserve the right to edit it as I remember more good moments from the evening)
NOW you're on your way to really experiencing the culture! A banya is completely non-sexual yet very sensual, and indeed there is no way to rush it. I'm glad you got to enjoy it (if enjoy is the right word...) You enjoy the relief when the beatings stop yet without the flagellation your body would not be as "reactive" and you'd feel less impact of the temperature extremes; With the full treatment you KNOW you are ALIVE and that your body is both stronger and more relaxed than a few hours ealier.
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